A quick little location sketch of where I was this time last week:
The warm brown sugar sand is perfectly formed into a little bench to rest on. It extends out to sea foam carpets inviting in those who dare. Past the invitation of the shallows, quick sets of aqua curls are speckled with little black figures. They wait for the right moment to paddle hard and drop into thousands of kilometers of pent-up energy. On top of the wave is intense therapy, underneath unforgiving harshness. Either way, every challenge an opportunity to grown, learn, forgive, and do it all over again. The waves mean no harm nor do they know the power they share with us. Its just a simple reaction to universal forces. All we are doing is make the most of it.
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